Giwangan, the Biggest Type-A Bus Station in Indonesia
When you travel to Yogyakarta by bus, most possibly you will stop at Giwangan terminal. This bus stop that is the biggest type-A terminal in Indonesia is located in an area with the same name of it. Starting to function since 2 years ago, this terminal becomes transit place for buses connecting Yogyakarta with other big cities in Indonesia such as Bali, Jakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Medan, Riau and Mataram.
This luxurious terminal that was built at tens million Indonesian Rupiah replaces the past Umbulharjo terminal. This new terminal is superior to the past one in many aspects. In addition to wider location, this terminal also has complete facilities. There is subway for passengers to get down from buses, separate parking lot for inter-city and city buses, gift shops, comfortable waiting room and praying room.
Getting down of the bus at the subway, a welcome board will greet you in block C entrance. Entering the block, you will encounter some small restaurants selling various menus, such as gudeg, Padang food, chicken soup, etc. Cleanliness of this terminal is maintained so well that makes you comfortable to have your meals there.
After having your meals, you can go upstairs to the waiting room in the second floor while waiting someone to pick you up, for example. There is a television set accompanying you while you are waiting; or, you can buy either magazines or newspaper in the shops nearby. For Moslems, they can say their prayer in a mosque at the north corner of the waiting room. At certain occasion, you can even get free health check-up.
Close to the waiting room, in block E, you can buy special food of Yogyakarta such as geplak, bakpia, yangko and intip. Telecommunication facility provides you with telephone and facsimile services. If you want to continue your trip, you can reserve your bus or travel tickets in some travel agents in block M. In order to get reasonable prices for either your gifts or your tickets, you need to be keen on selecting appropriate shop or agent.
If you want to go to your hotel or in-town tourism objects directly, you need to turn left after getting down of the bus passing through block C in order to get city bus. To get to Yogyakarta kingdom and Malioboro, you may take line 4 and 9. On the other hand, if you want to find a lodging in Prawirotaman, Sosrowijayan and Sosrokusuman, you can take line 2 and 15. The tariff of city bus is relatively cheap, namely 2,000 Rupiah per route.
Borobudur temple is reachable by bus that is usually available in the parking lot at the right side of block C. There, you can also get the bus to Prangtritis and Samas beaches, Kaliurang and Prambanan temple. For a distance of 30 kilometers, the fare is 15,000 Rupiah maximum. Each parking lot is completed with signboard telling the routes of each bus line.
Exiting the terminal, you will see traditional means of transportation, namely cart and pedicab. Its characteristic is seen from the design of the cart and pedicab that is different from ones in other cities. The horse cart, for example, has four wheels with bigger body compared to the horse cart in other cities with only two wheels. For relax trip, horse cart and pedicab are appropriate choices. One of the tourism objects that you can reach fast by pedicab or horse cart is Kotagede as the center of silver handicraft.
For those who come to this terminal for the first time, they do not have to worry. Clear signboards will guide you which bus to take. You can also ask some officers who are on guard in some points.
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Tamansari (Water Castle)
Formerly Tamansari was a recreation garden or a resting house for the Sultan and Family. The other resting houses including Warungboto, Manukberi, Ambarbingun, and Ambarrukmo functioned for the vacation and meditation for the royal family. The other function is used as hiding place for royal family to defend against the enemy assault.
Tamansari is located about 2 km south of Yogyakarta Palace. Built by Portuguese architect in European aquatic construction adorned with Javanese Symbolize ornaments. Tamansari was built in the Sultan Hamengku Buwono I period in the end of XVII Century. Tamansari not only just a recreation, but it's also a compound of bathing pool, canals, rooms and extremerly large swimming pool (if the canals opened).
The Tamansari complex consist of:
- The Sacred Room
There is the sacred place in the complex showing a separated building, which once functioned as a hermitage place for the Sultan and his family - The Bathing Pool
This part was formerly a pleasure place for the royal family. Consists of two bathing pool that are separated with a 2-storey building. From this building the Sultan watched all the women swimming in the outer pool. Then he might ask some of them to accompany him into the inner pool. The water sprouts from a forming animal statue into the pool. The pool is also adorned with some big flowerpot. -
Kenanga or Cemeti Island
This part compounds of some building such as Kenanga or Cemeti Island (forming Island), Sumur Gemuling and underground tunnels.
This artificial island is a high building used as resting room and reconnoitering place. This will be the only building surfaced when the canals opened and the water over flew this area. From the higher place it like lotus floating in the middle of big pool.
Sumur Gemuling is building constructed in circle such a well (Javanese: sumur) where some rooms formerly used as praying room.
The tunnels in this area were underground passageways to the Sultan palace. The legend says about secret tunnel connecting to the south sea (Indian Ocean) where Nyai Roro Kidul or the Queen of the South has her palace. The supernatural Queen becomes the wife of Yogyakarta Sultan for many generations. This secret tunnels is gateway to the world where the Sultan meeting is supernatural wife. However the building also functioned as a hiding place for the royal family against the enemy attack.
Tamansari is an interesting place to visit. Besides the location is very closed to the Sultan palace, Tamansari has it owned speciality in attraction reflecting in some unimpaired ancient building and its atmosphere as the main tourist object of Yogyakarta.
There is Masjid Sokotunggal, a unique mosque with a single pillar that is different from Javanese traditional architecture. Although built in the early of XX century, the mosque gives another attraction of this area. Kampung Taman that lies in the Tamansari complex nearby known for the batik craft. Visitor can buy or watch handmade process for both batik painting and batik clothes. Therefore people from all over Indonesia and abroad have visited this village. Not for from Tamansari is Ngasem traditional market, the biggest bird market in Yogyakarta. All of those attractions have made Tamansari become one of main tourist object in Yogyakarta besides Yogyakarta palace.
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Tugu Railway Station, One of the Oldest Train Stops in Indonesia
It is likely no other railway station that is located as strategically as Tugu railway station. It lies in the center of Yogyakarta city, close to traditional and modern shopping centers; it only takes a little time to reach five-star and budget hotels and it is close to some tourism objects. One other thing that most people neglect is that this station turns to have tourism potential because of its characteristic building and more than a century of its age.
Tugu railway station started to serve transportation need since 2 May 1887, around 15 years after Lempuyangan station, another railway station in Yogyakarta that is located to the east of Tugu station. The construction of Tugu station was part of the efforts by the Dutch government by that time to distribute crops in Java, Sumatra, Kalimantan and Sulawesi. Passengers service from this station as one of the oldest railway stations in Indonesia began to function since 1 February 1905 and the first out-of-town line was to Surakarta that was built in 1899.
Starting as a small station, now Tugu station becomes one of the biggest railway stations in Indonesia. With 6 train lines, this railway station serves transportation from almost all big cities in Java. More than 20 train departures and arrivals - economy class, business and executive ones - occur everyday. There are various options for train types and time departures to go to a certain city.
Being built during the Dutch colonial time, the architecture of the building is so close to European nuance. Getting down from the train, you will directly notice it from the big doors in brown color and the high roof accentuated with robust walls painted in white. You can enjoy the original shape of the building from the front view. The building looks so great with big entrance and two high roofs sheltering two platforms on the north and south sides of the main building.
Unlike other big railway stations that function as a place for transit, Tugu railway station still preserves its function as a place of train maintenance. For the reason, you have an opportunity to wander about the corners of the station to see technician activities and to trace the oldness of this railway station. Some of the workers know well about the history of this station so that they can be good sources of information.
If you walk to the west part of the station, you will get to the place for locomotive maintenance. You will admire details of components in a locomotive. You can even observe the lower part of a locomotive since there is a ladder that enables you to reach the lower part of it. An old, black train monument can be another object to enjoy.
Walking a little bit to the south of the place, you will come to an area where compartments are maintained. You can see them from distant through the iron fence painted in blue-white colors. Looking above, you will see a train part that is located on top of a yellow tower. That part that has been utilized since the Dutch time is a crane that functions to connect train compartments. When you walk to the north, you will see workers cleaning the trains.
If you arrive in the afternoon, take your time to stand in between line 4 and 6 and look westwards. Beautiful scenery of the dusk will be seen on bright days, combined with railways that look like lines and finally end as a dot. The train crane and singing street musicians complete the exotic scenery of the dusk.
Then, you can start your tour in Yogyakarta after you are satisfied to enjoy the beauty of this railway station. You can travel by pedicab to go to Yogyakarta Sultan's Palace and to buy bakpia - special cake of Yogyakarta - in Pathuk. For farther travel, you can travel by public bus or taxi. If you want to go shopping directly, you just need to walk along the Malioboro Street that is located right to the south of the railway station.
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Sosrowijayan, a Tourist Kampong in the City Center of Yogyakarta
Walking about 200 meters southwards from Tugu railway station, along Malioboro Street, you will find Sosrowijayan kampong. A plank at the corner of the small street with the same name on it leads you to the area. Connecting Dagen Street and Malioboro Street, Sosrowijayan is split into two areas, namely East Sosrowijayan and West Sosrowijayan. Later, East Sosrowijayan is known as the second famous tourist kampong in Yogyakarta after Prawirotaman.
Arriving at the T-junction of the street named after the past authority of the area (Sosrowijoyo), you will be greeted friendly by pedicab drivers. Usually, they will assist you to get lodgings or take a mini tour along Malioboro Street or to get bakpia (the special snack of this city) at Pathok area by riding their pedicab. Many guides will readily assist you to get lodgings, for example. They will tell you many things about places of interests in Yogyakarta, too.
Entering Sosrowijayan area, you will see an old building functioning as a lodging, namely Aziatic Hotel. The building that was built during the Dutch colonization has typical European architecture. The building has white wall with three doors and some supporting pillars on the front side, while the name of the hotel is directly embossed to the wall in black color. Once, this hotel was used as the shooting location of 'Daun di Atas Bantal (The Leaf on A Pillow)' film that was shown in Cannes Film Festival.
Entering the first alley, there are two bookshops. Most of the works sold there are novels in English; some of them are in Indonesian language. You can freely select or just take a quick reading of the content since they are all unwrapped. Even though most of them are used ones, physical quality of the books is preserved so well that they are worth collecting. The prices vary but they are definitely cheaper than those in bookshops.
If you want to be able to make batik, you can take a course offered by a lodging in the second alley. Close to the lodging, there is a batik studio managed by a local inhabitant. The style of the batik in this studio is painting batik, just like the ones you find in Taman kampong, near Tamansari Water Castle. The superiority of painting batik lies of its colors and temporary design.
As a kampong for tourists, there must be many guesthouses there. Different from the ones in Prawirotaman, the guesthouses and lodgings in this kampong are among local people's houses since most of them are in the alleys of the kampong. If you want to stay in more a private lodging, you can choose one among many hotels alongside Sosrowijayan Street. The tariff of the lodgings in this kampong that is located to the south of Pasar Kembang area is not different from that in Prawirotaman.
In the afternoon, while relaxing after wandering about Yogyakarta, you can enjoy the life of local children. Usually, girls will play rope jump or other traditional children games and boys gather in a certain place to have a chat. Meanwhile, the young people play guitar while singing Indonesian hit songs. They are members of Maliboro Art Community that in certain occasions they perform on stages.
Tour travels are also available in Sosrowijayan. Moneychanger, internet connection, telecommunication booth, motorcycle and car rental are all available for your convenience. When you are hungry, you can just go to dining places opened by local inhabitants. At the end of the first alley, for example, there is a simple dining place yet many foreign tourists come to have meals. Traditional cuisine such as fried noodle, stir-fried vegetables with chili and other delicious dishes are served. Some restaurants serve steak and other menus at affordable prices.
In the evening time, Sosrowijayan gets more vivid. Many young people gather at the street sides while some cafes tune live music as an alternative amusement. In combination with the nightlife of Malioboro Street, Sosrowijayan becomes vivid. A small warong under an orange tent that local people call angkringan is a nice place to have a talk. While chatting, you can enjoy tea, ginger beverage, or the other delicious menus at very cheap prices.
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Sosrokusuman, from Cheap Logding to Wayang Kancil
Blend of kampong nuance and metropolitan nuance can be found in Sosrokusuman. People's houses that stand close one to each other and small stalls are contiguous with modern Malioboro mall. Located in the heart of Yogyakarta city, Sosrokusuman has been transit place for tourists visiting the second tourism city in Indonesia.
This kampong stretches southwards from Malioboro mall to Mutiara hotel. A simple gate signs that you are entering this kampong. There are two small alleys to enter this area. The first alley is right to the south of Malioboro mall and the other one is further to the south of the first one.
In the first alley, there are many food stalls. Nasi rames, pecel, kupat tahu and soto ayam are examples of the menus available. You only have to pay around 5,000 Indonesian Rupiah including the drink for each menu. Some retails run by local inhabitants also provides you with daily needs.
Entering into the kampong connecting Malioboro Street to Mataram Street, you will find many lodgings most of which form is losmen (inn). The tariff is 250,000 Rupiah per night at most. The atmosphere of the inns is relaxing. One of the inns at the end of the second alley, for example, provides relaxing setting outdoors with wooden chairs and a mini cafe.
If you get to the end of the first ally and you turn right, you will find some gift kiosks. They sell typical snacks and food of Yogyakarta such as geplak, the colorful, sweet snack made of grates of coconut mixed with sugar and flavors), tape ketan (fermented stick rice in green color), ting-ting (sugar caramel mixed with peanut), bakpia (made of flour filled with mung bean, cheese, chocolate or others.
If you want to buy souvenirs, please go to the second alley. On of the local people sell interesting souvenirs such as colorful candles, wooden puppet, etc. In front of the first alley, there is a kiosk selling hat, T-shirt and bandana at reasonable price. The design is quite interesting. T-shirt with the writing Yogyakarta or with picture of Borobudur temple and colorful bandana with batik motif are available here.
In Sosrokusuman, you can also make an acquaintance with an activist of wayang kancil (a kind of puppet of which script originated from Surakarta for development of Islam), namely Mr. Ledjar Subroto. The characters he creates have been kept in Taman Mini Indonesia Indah or the beautiful miniature of Indonesia in Jakarta and in foreign countries such as Netherlands, Germany, America, Japan, and Australia. Puppet shows in different countries also involved Ledjar as the conceiver. Wayang Kancil that is developed by this gentleman from Bondowoso has been education curriculum in some countries to embed moral teaching.
Other form of art that you can enjoy is mural painting in some walls of the second alley. The painting gives different nuance from other kampongs. If you want to see other mural painting, you can find it in the north of Malioboro mall. Isn't it strategic to start your tour from Sosrokusuman?
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Madukismo Sugar Factory and the Iron of Kwai River Bridge in Thailand
Visiting Madukismo Sugar Factory, you will feel the nuance of the early industry era. An old, big building with vast yard, old machineries and the railway track used for flatcar to transport sugarcane will greet you and stress such an impression. This factory offers tour enjoyment that is different from others. You can make an appointment first with the management of the company in order to enjoy Madukismo Agro Tourism is tour package since it is not done anytime.
When you come to the factory area, you will see Madu Chandya building that is located close to the factory. Then, you will be guided to know the making process of sugar from the sugarcane and the methylated spirit as the side product of sugar. The explanation is given by utilizing audiovisual equipments in order to make the presentation interesting.
A short journey on an old train can be made after the presentation. You will be able to feel the nuance of a travel in the past when you are in the compartment of the old train driven by diesel machine made in Germany. The old train will bring you around the factory area and the sugar can plantation close to the factory.
Getting down from the train, you will go to the location of the factory. If you come in May - September, you will be able to see the processes of sugar production directly. The processes include molasses tapping, molasses distillation, molasses evaporation, crystallization, sugar stirring and packaging. While observing the production process, you can look at the old machines used in the factory.
Exiting the location of sugar factory, you can go to methylated spirit factory of Madukismo that is located at the west of the sugar factory. In the factory that was built in the same time as the sugar factory, you will see the processes of the spirit production that include raw material dilution, fermentation and distillation. Methylated spirit and other alcohol products produced by this factory are processed from molasses, side product of sugar production.
If you have completed your tour in the factory, you should not rush home. You can still enjoy many things around the factory area. Tracking the route of sugar cane transportation through sugar cane field and villages in Bantul area is an interesting to do. To the east of the factory, you can also see old train compartments that are not functional anymore.
The used irons from this factory location were brought to Thailand to construct Kwai River bridge, the bride connecting Thailand to Burma as the battle location during the Second World War and was filmed on The Bridge of the Kwai River that won 7 Oscars in 1957, included the Best Movie award. Now, the bridge that was built using the used irons from Madukismo Sugar Factory becomes one of the main tour destinations in Thailand to commemorate the raid by the allied Forces and the forced labors.
If you come at the early time of sugarcane pressing (May-September), you will see the ritual of cembengan done by the workers and the community around the factory. The ritual is intended to wish the best luck for the sugarcane pressing to be done smoothly. During the ritual, you can see the bride and bridegroom sugarcanes, the first sugarcane pressing, jathilan performance, community market, plantation of buffalo's and cow's heads, offerings, reading of Koran holy verses and night-long performance of leather puppet show. If you want to leave for Kasongan village that is located some kilometers from the factory you can travel southwards.
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Chinese Area in Yogyakarta, Historical Trading Area
Many people pass by this area when they walk southwards of Malioboro Street. Its enchantment, however, is sometimes neglected when people are absorbed in shopping. This kampong is named Pecinan or Chinese Kampong of which street name is now changed to Jalan Ahmad Yani. Passing through this street, you will see many shops and kiosks of tens years old.
Your journey can start from the side of the kampong, on the road beside Batik Terang Bulan shop to be exact. Arriving at the first alley, you may turn left to find legendary Chinese medication shop. There used to be a healer in the shop who could cure broken bones only with powder mixed from medication plants that was stuck to the skin surface of part of the body of which bones were broken.
Walking eastwards of the alley, you will find kiosks selling goods and services most of which are painted white. One of them is a Chinese traditional teeth kiosk offering teeth whitening service, teeth accessories installation in order to beautify them and other services to make them more interesting. The kiosk is painted light yellow with picture of teeth on its big front window.
In addition to the teeth kiosk, there are other kiosks selling Chinese cuisine such as noodle, cap cay, kwe tiau and so on. Other kiosks sell cakes materials, clothes materials, accessories and daily needs.
From Terang Bulan shop, if you walk westwards, passing through Jalan Pajeksan, you will find similar kiosks. What special is that at the end of the street, there is a place where members of Fu Ching Organization gather. The members of the organization are Chinese Indonesians who live and trade in the area. At certain occasions, for example on Chinese New Year, the members hold Chinese traditional events.
After walking around the area, you can walk southwards from Batik Terang Bulan shop. You will find a bakery named 'Djoen'. Since almost a hundred years ago, the shop of which complete name is 'Perusahaan Roti dan Kuwe Djoen' has been pride of Yogyakarta citizens. The age of the shop can be seen clearly if you stand across the street while looking at the name of the shop that is on its wall as the characteristic of the shops in the area in the past. Now, the products adapt market taste yet preserving some special cakes such as pillow cake, namely flat, oval unsweetened bread with sesames spread over.
Arriving at the Lor Pasar area or the north side of Beringharjo market, you will find traditional kiosks selling various needs, from electronics, sewing instruments and clothes accessories, cooking utensils to gold accessories. This place is famous with Yogyakarta citizens as the place to get goods at cheap prices. Some of the kiosks sell antique things.
A Chinese area located across Beringharjo market, there is an old medicine store called "Toko Obat Bah Gemuk". Various traditional Chinese medicines with famous efficacy are sold there.
Even though the image of this Chinese area fades a little bit, the presence of some old kiosks make this area still interesting to visit.
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Pasar Klithikan of Yogyakarta, Hunting Unique, Used Things
A busy trading atmosphere is clearly seen along the west side of Mangkubumi Street at night. The place is central of used things trading named Pasar Klithikan or Klithikan market that was named after the sound 'klithik' of the things when the sellers throw the merchandises. Every night, the sellers spread their merchandises on a cloth or carpet with traditional lamp called teplok as source of the light. Meanwhile, tens of people stand around to select the things they are going to buy.
There is no fixed information of the onset of such a market. However, the name 'Klithikan' was initially known by Yogyakarta people since 1960s when economy was getting worse. The peak of the market that is located close to Tugu Yogyakarta was after the economy crisis in 1998. More sellers offer their merchandises and more people come to buy.
Pasar Klithikan in Mangkubumi is different from other markets for used things. It is superior in that its quality and uniqueness are well maintained. You can find old watches, old spectacles or contemporary items such as disc man, hand phone, motor spare parts, etc. at cheap prices. One watch can sell at 9,500 Indonesian Rupiah and an old hand phone can be bought at less than 100,000 Rupiah.
What attracts people is more that just used goods. Starting at seven o'clock in the evening, people begin to crowd the place. Usually, people look thoroughly at the goods before bargaining. Quite often, a buyer spends much time on bargaining to flatter the seller to give certain good to him.
Unlike in other used markets where you may only see people trade goods, here people may spend much time talking about certain item. Friendly conversation takes place between the seller and buyer. Sometimes, other buyers join in the discussion so that it looks like a social gathering. Big laughter and light curses makes the discussion vivid.
Other uniqueness of Pasar Klithikan is that there is no certainty of who are the sellers and who are the buyers. One person may positions as a seller at one time and a buyer at other time. If you have something unique, you can bring here and offer it to someone at the price you want to sell. Usually, the older the things the more expensive it will sell.
Although this market sells used goods, it does not necessarily determine that the visitors are of middle-below class only. From their appearance, we can see that they are from different social classes. Some of them come in T-shirts and shorts and some are neat and fashionable. They come for different intention from looking for economy-priced items to finding unique things for their collection.
With its entire nuance, Pasar Klithikan is worth judging as a tourism object and a place to spend your night. Second-hand merchandises are insufficient to negatively judge this market. The naming 'market' of this place is an added value since, actually, with no permanent building for trading, this place should be called sidewalk stall.
Please come and feel the characteristic nuance of this market. You might get something you are longing for without spending too much money, or meet with people of the same interest. If that happens to you, you will not forget the memory of visiting Yogyakarta.
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Ngasem, the Bird Market in Yogyakarta
Wandering about Ngasem market seems like a must after visiting Yogyakarta Sultan Palace. In addition to its location that is only 400 meters west of the Palace, this market will give important information on what was considered prestige in the past. After horses functioning as means of transportation and kris as a weapon, birds comes the third position as social status measurement. Ngasem Market offers various kinds of birds with their beautiful appearance and voice and the activities of the bird lovers there.
Evidence in the form of a photograph shows that Ngasem market with birds as its main commodity has been operating since 1809. Its location that is not far from the Kingdom was meant for the noblemen to access it easily. In around 1960s, this market was increasingly identical to birds when birds sellers from Beringharjo were moved to this place. It is not surprising that many tourists call this market a bird market since the area for selling birds occupies one third of the market width.
The area for birds trading is on the left side of the entrance. The turtledove that many noblemen bought in the past is still one of the main commodities of this market. Other best sellers are bulbuls, orioles, starlings and minas, parakeet and small local birds such as emprit and prenjak. An interesting bird that people rarely buy is owl of which child is sold at 35,000 Rupiah. One of the bird shops had even recently sold an eagle at 350,000 Rupiah. Besides selling birds, the shops also provide care equipments such as cage and feeds.
Ngasem Market has different nuance from other bird market. Here, visitors do not only enjoy the birds beauty but also animal show performed by birds lovers, for example demonstration of doves that return to its cage from distant flight and birds chirp contest. Sometimes, the visitors decided to spend some amount of money to buy birds by listening to the chirp in the contest first. The sellers use the event to train the birds to chirp or just to discuss about the technique of taking care of birds.
If you go around the market, you will see that many other animals than birds are sold here. Turning right from the birds block, you will come to a kiosk that sells snakes. The seller tells that the snakes were caught directly from its habitat. The snakes range from water snake to cobra and python. To look the animals in detail, please ask the sellers to take them out for you to inspect. In addition to snakes, the kiosk also sells various reptiles such as iguana and turtle. A small iguana is sold at 75,000 Rupiah and when it sells hundreds thousand when it is already big.
Walking westwards of the market, you will see many kiosks selling ornamental fish. The types and prices vary. Small fish that live in a colony is sold 1,000 each. Other ornamental fish are arwana and lou han sold at hundreds thousand. The kiosks also sell equipments for taking care of fish such as aquarium of various shapes, coral reefs, ornamental plants to be put in the aquarium and fish feeds. Some kiosks provide services for setting up sea fish cultivation.
Other animals than fish, bird, and snakes that are sold are dog, cat, civet, various kinds of chickens and rabbits with different fur colors. One kiosk sells hamster complete with its cage designed specifically in order to provide playground for it so that buyers will be able to see the behavior of the hamster that is similar to that of mice. In the middle of the market, many people sell crickets. Crickets are used as feeds for certain birds or by students to listen to its sound.
If you feel tired or hungry, just like other traditional markets do, Ngasem also provides you with traditional snacks. One of the special, traditional snacks is jenang gempol (round in shape, made from rice flour with rich flavor combined with coconut milk sauce and sweet palm sugar syrup) that is usually sold in front of the market. Other traditional snacks are getuk, lupis, thiwul, and gatot that all of which are made of cassava. Close to the bird kiosks, there are small dining places selling soto and nasi rames. For sure, the exploration to Ngasem Market will be enjoyable.
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Kotagede Mosque, the Oldest Mosque in Yogyakarta
Wandering through Kotagede will be complete only if you have visited the Kotagede Mosque, the oldest building for Moslems to say their prayer in Yogyakarta. This building is often skipped by tourists who are going to the cemetery complex of Mataram Kings, whereas in fact the building is not less enchanting. In fact, there are stories of the instruments in the mosque that was built in 1640s.
Before entering the complex of the mosque - in the parking area - you will see a banyan tree that has been there for hundreds years so that people name it "Waringin Sepuh" that means an old banyan tree. This tree will bring luck to anyone who is praying under it when he or she gets two leaves with one facing up and the other facing down.
Approaching the mosque complex, you will find a gateway. Right in front of the gate, there is wall in the shape of L letter. Some pictures symbolizing the kingdom are carved on it. Such buildings represent Sultan Agung's tolerance to local inhabitants who embraced Hinduism and Buddhism and took part in building the mosque.
Entering the mosque yard, you will see green inscription as high as 3 meters signifying mosque renovation done by Paku Buwono. The base of the inscription is of square form and on top of it is the crown as the symbol of Surakarta Kingdom. A clock functioning as time reference for praying is attached to the southern side of the inscription.
We learn from the inscription that Kotagede mosque was built in two stages. The first work done during Sultan Agung reign was small mosque that was called langgar because of the size. The second building was done by Paku Buwono X, the King of Surakarta Kingdom. The difference of those two building lies on the poles; the one built by Sultan Agung was with wooden poles while the other done by Paku Buwono X was with iron poles.
The main part of the mosque is of Javanese style namely limasan that is characterized by pyramid-form of the roof and two different rooms functioning as main room and verandah respectively.
You will see ditch encircling the mosque before you enter the main building of the mosque. It functions as drainage for the water flowing from a place where people take water from the north part of the mosque to clean them before praying. Now, the ditch functions as fishpond after being renovated with porcelains being fitted to the base of it. In order to ease people to enter the building, small bridge is constructed of woods arranged side by side.
Outside of the main building of the mosque, there is an old drum placed beside a kentongan (traditional Javanese wooden drum that is struck to sound alarm). The drum that is as old as the mosque was a present from Nyai Pringgit from Dondong village of Kulon Progo Regency. Thanks to her presence, her descendents were rewarded privilege to stay in the area around the mosque that later was named Dondongan. The drum is in use this time as time signal for praying.
There is a speaker platform made of finely carved wood inside the mosque, beside the place where imam leads the prayer. The platform was given by Sultan Agung who got it when he visited a Regent in Palembang on his return from Mecca. It is now rarely used in order to keep it from being damaged. For daily uses, people replace it with small platform.
Walking around the mosque, you will see different encircling walls. The left wall was constructed of bigger bricks in size with brighter color and marble-looking stone on the surface with Javanese writings on it. The other wall on the other part is of less bright bricks with smaller size and no decoration on it. The left wall was built during Sultan Agung reign while the other wall was the result of the renovation done by Paku Buwono X. The wall constructed during Sultan Agung reign was cemented by using the juice of sugar palm for stronger bound.
This old mosque still looks vivid to the present time. People make use of it form religious activities. When praying time comes, many people will come to it. After praying, many of them stay there to communicate to each other, to learn Koran or even to take a nap.
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Malioboro, Nostalgia in Souvenirs Paradise
Stretching on imaginary poles connecting Yogyakarta Sultan Palace, Tugu and the peak of Merapi Mountain, this street forms trading locality after Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono I developed means of trading through traditional market since 1758. After 248 years, the place still persists as a trading area; it even becomes the icon of Yogyakarta, known as Malioboro.
Located around 800 meters from Yogyakarta Sultan Palace, this place was always crowded with flowers each time the Palace held ceremonies. Malioboro that in Sanskrit means bouquet serves as a basis for naming this street.
Framed by shops, offices, restaurants, star hotels and historical buildings, the street that once functioned as struggling center during the second Dutch military aggression in 1948 was once a place of wandering for the artists joining together in Persada Studi Klub (PSK) community led by Umbul Landu Paranggi since 1970s to around the end of 1990s.
Souvenirs Paradise
Enjoying shopping experience, hunting exclusive souvenirs of Jogja, tourists may walk on foot along the arcades of Malioboro Street. There are many vendors selling their merchandises, ranging from such local handicrafts as batik, rattan ornament, leather puppet, bamboo handicrafts (key holder, ornament lamp, and others) as well as blangkon (Javanese / Jogjanese traditional cap) and silver goods to general little things that you may find in other trading places. Along the arcade, tourists will not only enjoy shopping peacefully on sunny or rainy days but they also enjoy bargaining prices. If they are good at bargaining and have good luck, they will end up buying at third quarter or even half of the prices offered.
Do not forget to save energy. There is still one big traditional market tourists must visit. Well known as Pasar Beringharjo, this market provides complete traditional products in addition to similar goods sold along the arcade of Malioboro Street. In addition to local products of Jogja, products from neighboring areas such as Pekalongan batik and Solo batik are available. There are many choices of hand made batik, printed batik, window curtain with unique motifs and batik bed sheet. This place will satisfy the desire of buying unique goods at reasonable price.
Please make sure that you are not cheated by the offered prices. Usually, the vendors will increase the prices for tourists.
Vredeburg Fort and Gedung Agung
At the end of this "bouquet" street, tourists can drop by at Vredeburg Fort that is located across Gedung Agung. This fort was the Dutch protection basis from possible attacks by Yogyakarta Kingdom troops. Similar to other forts, this place built in 1765 is high, square walls confining the area inside with one monitoring tower in each of the four corners for patrolling purpose. From the tower at the southern part, YogYES took the opportunity to enjoy sceneries of the Sultan Palace and other historical buildings.
Malioboro Cross-Legged Food Vendors (Lesehan, Javanese Language)
When the sun sets in the west and at the same time the lights along the street and the arcade add more beauty to Malioboro, food sellers begin to set the cross-legged eating place. Special menu of Jogja such as Gudeg and Pecel Lele are served in addition to oriental cuisines and sea food as well as Padang cuisine of West Sumatra. The street singers will sing hit songs and memory songs for some small change.
For tourists who are going to try menus served along Malioboro Street, please do not hesitate to check the price list and confirm it to the seller to prevent illogical charge.
Visiting Yogyakarta, the city known as "The Javanese Culture Living Museum" will not be complete unless you pay a visit to the street that keeps various stories of Indonesian Nation struggle and crowded with various souvenirs. It is paradise for history lovers and souvenirs hunters. (YogYES.COM: R. Syah)
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Mural Park under the Lempuyangan Flyover
The space under bridges or flyovers in many places might be identical with untidiness, disorder, and crime. Nonetheless, you should not consider the same thing when you come to the area under the Lempuyangan flyover since it becomes an alternative public space amid the scarcity of playground and public space in Yogyakarta. The area under the flyover that is located to the east of Lempuyangan (the oldest railway station in Yogyakarta) functions as a place to construct imagination.
It has been common views that little children accompanied by their parents are sitting relax in the area close to the railway crossbar. They hang around in a narrow, paved area to the north of the rails waiting for the train to pass by and spend the time joyfully. While waiting for the train, fathers of the children will lead their children to imagine the comfort making a tour exploring Java island on a train, while listening to the characteristic sound of the rotating wheels of the train.
Even though it is only an imagination, the children seem to be very happy with this activity. When YogYES visited this place a couple of days ago, a son with his father looked very happy when an executive train passed by. The son asked his father in Javanese language, "Pak kuwi sepur opo?" (What train is that, dad?), and the father seemed to guess the name of the train as an answer. After the train passed by, the son played again and asked, "Pak, mengko ono sepur sing liwat ora?" (Will there be another train passing by, dad?). And the son keeps on waiting for the next train to pass by.
Simple yet valuable; that is the imagination of going on a train. The imagination is able to stimulate happiness and sooth weariness. For some people with very limited budget, it can also refrain from the urge to make a real trip on the train, when the expense for such a strip is quite expensive for them, especially when prices of daily needs are increasing. Such an imagination was portrayed by Apotik Komik arts community; it gave an inspiration in the making of the mural work in 2002.
Samuel Indratma, one of the activists in Apotik Komik told YogYES that the murals were created to make the atmosphere of the area under the flyover more vivid, as well as to introduce the art work that is expected to be appreciated by Yogyakarta community and to take care of the neglected city corners. Samuel said that the use of the area under the flyover implies the shortage of children playground.
Now, if you come to the area under Lempuyangan flyover, you can enjoy beautiful murals created by Apotik Komik. The murals are painted from the south end to the north end of the flyover with all beams being painted colourfully as well. Most of the murals are of fun nuance, in line with the place that functions as an area for children to play with their imagination, even though some of them bring quite serious themes.
Some of the murals are related to trains, looking as if they are going to portray the activities done under the flyover every afternoon. One of them is the mural created by Nano Warsono that is located on the beam close to the railway crossbar. It describes a big person and two persons looking like clowns who are depicted to be travelling on a train. The rails are portrayed as bending with two compartments carrying the clowns. Once, there was a child in his karate uniform wanted his picture to be taken in front of the mural because he liked it so much.
Still related to the train, on the other part of the flyover wall, there is another mural depicting the atmosphere of the railway station. Chain of trains look to be parked in the station with the faces of the passengers appear behind the windows. A stewardess stands besides the trains. On her right side, a man stands still. It seems that the mural invites children to imagine the atmosphere of the railway station with all of its activities.
Another mural still carrying fun, children nuance is found on the wall at the north end of the flyover. The pictures of tens of fish looking like mermaids decorate the wall. The fish are painted white while the background is blue that might describe the blue of the ocean. Close to the mural, there is another mural describing a big watermelon with little creatures. This last mural is located precisely to the south of the railway crossbar.
On the west wall of the flyover, a mural presumably comes in a series. At the south end, there are pictures of eyes looking at a gown, and the eyes change into vicious cells in the next part. Next, there is a description of a baby growing as a strong and robust creature but it looks like being gnawed by diseases. The next part is a picture of a cash register and a product with fruits spread. What interesting is that under each frame there is an inset of a stewardess visualizing the way of utilizing life buoy during an emergency. You can catch the message behind this mural, can't you?
Another side of the flyover also has quite serious murals. The mural enclosed with texts containing certain messages, for example. Another mural paints human faces covered with smoke and "smoke" is written on it; it might want to describe the situation of Jogja with the air pollution. Another mural brings the theme of love with the writing "Tebar Pesona Cinta" that means "Share Love Attraction" and a mural with quite long message translated into 3 languages that is dedicated to those who are not forgiving.
The murals on this flyover do not only function as beautiful decoration, but they also contribute to the people who work around the flyover everyday and they are also appreciated by the community surrounding the flyover. A drinks seller acknowledges that after the existence of the murals, the situation under the flyover gets busier and it directly gives extra income for her. The community around the flyover also like the murals that, according to them, give special nuance. Some people express it that the murals are beneficial in that they erase vandalism in the flyover.
The murals on the flyover make it like a park, a playground for children and a mural park at the same time, since they come with various themes created by different muralists. If you wan to enjoy them, you go eastwards from the Grand Post Office crossroad until to get to Sentul and turn left following the line until you get to the flyover.
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It lies between Tugu as the north border and Panggung Krapyak as the south border, between Code River in the east and Winongo River in the west; between the Merapi Mountain and the South Sea. In the mind of the Javanese community, kraton is defined as center of the world that is described as center of the universe.
History of the Sultan Palace
After the Giyanti Agreeement, Yogyakarta territory was given to Pangeran Mangkubumi. To run his governance, he built a palace in 1755 in Hutan Beringan area; such a good place flanked by two rivers that protect it from being flooded. The first king of Yogyakarta Palace was Pangeran Mangkubumi with the title Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono I (HB I).
Naming and Meaning of the Lay Out
Karaton, Keraton or Kraton, originates from the word ke-ratu-an that means the place where the queen/king lives. Simple explanation of its broader meaning is that all structures and buildings in the Kraton area have significant meaning related to essential Javanese philosophy of life, namely Sangkan Paraning Dumadi that means the origin and the destination of human being.
In general, the Kraton area stretches 5 kilometers southwards to Krapyak village and 2 kilometers northwards until the Tugu monument. In this imaginary line, there is a reversed dualism linear line that tells symbolical philosophy: the direction from south to north symbolizes the birth of human being from the high place to the perishable world, and the opposite direction symbolizes the return of human being to the Dumadi (God in Javanese philosophy). Kraton is physical symbol and the King is the symbol of the real soul that presents into the physical body.
The direction from the Palace to the Tugu monument represents the road of life that is full of temptations. Beringharjo market symbolizes women temptation and temptation of power is symbolized by Kepatihan building. The straight street connecting the Palace to Tugu monument symbolizes close relationship between human being and the Creator (Sangkan Paraning Dumadi).
In short, Tugu monument is a symbol of lingga (male sex organ) and Krapyak symbolizes yoni (female sex organ) and kraton is physical blend of the two.
The Meaning of Yogyakarta Space Arrangement
Hit by the earthquake in 1867, the Sultan Palace was severely damaged. During the reign of HB VII in 1889, the building was renovated. The lay out being retained, the shape of the building was changed to the current look.
Tugu monument and Manguntur Tangkil hall or Bangsal Kencana (where the king is seated), are straight in a line. This means that while sitting on his throne and looking toward the Tugu monument, he will always remember his people.
In general, the space arrangement of the current Sultan Palace is similar to the one of Mataram Dynasty. The center of the Palace is the so called Bangsal Kencana that is adjacent to Bangsal Prabayeksa as the place to keep sacred weapons (in this room, there is an oil lamp called Kyai Wiji that is kept lit by the Palace servants). This hall is surrounded by Kedhaton yard so that people must go through layers of the yard that seem like waves in order to reach the center.
This special arrangement of the Palace looks similar to constellation of mountain and Jambu Dwipa land that is considered to be central archipelago of the universe.
From north part to west part of the Palace area, there are North Square, North Siti Hinggil, North Kemandhungan, Srimanganti, Kedhaton, Kemagangan, South Kemandungan, South Siti Hinggil and South Square (the yard that is protected by high walls).
In order to reach all of the places, there are nine gates (called regol) that must be passed through, namely: gerbang, pangurukan, tarub agung, brajanala, srimanganti, kamagangan, gadhung mlati, kemandhungan and gading.
Brongtodiningrat sees the significance of this number, as the highest number to describe excellence. This is related to nine holes in human beings, commonly called babahan hawa sanga.
The sacredness of each Palace building is indicated by the frequency and intensity of Sultan activities in the location.
Sultan only visits the Square, Pagelaran, and Siti Hinggil three times a year, namely during the events of Pisowan Ageng Grebeg Maulud, Sawal and Besar and other very special, incidental events such as coronation of the Sultan and the crown prince or Pangeran Adipati Anom.
Yogyakarta Sultan Palace is an old building that was once damaged and restored. In general, it looks like other Kingdom buildings. When we understand the philosophy of them deeper, however, we will understand the symbolical meaning of life philosophy, human nature, how the nature works and human beings live their lives and various symbols of life existence in them.
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Kotagede, Enchantment of an Old City
The victory of Ki Gede Pemanahan over Arya Penangsang who was in opposition to the King of Pajang was the beginning of the foundation of Mataram Islam Kingdom. Thanks to Ki Ageng Pemanahan who helped Pajang, the King of Pajang rewarded him a forest named Mentaok where he built Mataram Islam Kingdom in 1575 with his people called mentawisan.
An Old City as Center of Silver Handicrafts
Located around 10 kilometers at the southeastern part of Yogyakarta city center, the area is now well known as Kotagede as the center of silver handicrafts in Yogyakarta. Keeping around 170 old buildings built in 1700 to 1930, "Kotagede is not only named Silver City but an Old Capital City" as Achmad Charris Zubair, a Kotagede cultural observer, said.
Entering Kotagede from the north through Gedong Kuning, a small street framed with classical buildings along both sides look like an exotic opening for tourists after going through the gate.
Since entering Kotagede area, tourists begin to enjoy various kinds silver handicrafts at various prices sold at the front part of local people's house functioning as the gallery at the same time. Most of the houses are in traditional Javanese architecture called Joglo.
Silver handicraft is a culture descended by the ancestor to the next generations. Initially, handicrafts in Kotagede were made of gold, silver and copper. By the coarse of time, however, silver is most preferred. For the reason, craftsmen make more silver handicrafts until today. This handicraft is exported to foreign countries, mainly to Europe. Order is usually increasing by the year end.
Please drop by at the gallery to see various kinds of handicraft, ranging from jewelry, silver ornament and utensils that are made with artistic touch of Kotagede silversmiths. Warm smile and greeting are pleasant reception to begin the exploration through Kotagede.
The Tomb of Old Mataram Kingdom Founder
To the south village, there is a traditional market named Pasar Gede. Even though the architecture of the building is simple, the traditional market built in Panembahan Senopati time has been one of economy activities of mentawisan community. For this reason, Kotagede used to be known as Pasar Gede or Sargede.
Around 50 meters south of Pasar Gede on Masjid Besar Street, there is a gate with long fort protecting one of Mataraman triumph sites in the past that is still well taken cared of. Some banyan trees with long hanging roots telling its old age looks like the guardians of the sacred place. Passing through the second gate there is two-meter high wall with passages on both sides that cuts off the view of the third gate as the entrance to Masjid Agung (The Great Mosque) complex.
At the center of the complex, there is a Great Mosque surrounded by the houses of the court servants. The mosque was built by Sultan Agung with his local people - most of them were Hindus and Buddhists - so that much of the architecture adopted typical Hindu and Buddha architecture. One of it is the mosque gate that is carved like vihara. Most of the wooden carvings at each corner of the mosque are of Hindu and Buddha style. This is unique to the mosque. There is also a pulpit with unique carving in the mosque as tribute from Palembang Regent to Sultan Agung.
To the south of the mosque there is tomb complex of the predecessors of Mataram Kingdom and their families that used to be dwelling place of Ki Ageng Pemanahan.
Passing through the second gate there is a complex functioning as border as well as connecting line to the tomb and Sendang Saliran (place for bathing). There are office, warehose, bangsal pengapit lor (north framing hall) and bangsal pengapit kidul (south framing hall) in this complex.
To the west of the complex there is a gate leading to the tomb complex. Entering this complex, tourists must wear Javenese traditional clothes and say prayer before opening the tomb gate. Passing by around 720 tombs, tourists will be led to the main building where the Court Big Family was buried. Some of the predecessors are Nyai Ageng Nis and Pangeran Djoyo Prono who were grandparents of Panembahan Senopati, Ki Gede Pemanahan (the father of Panembahan Senopati), Panembahan Senopati and Kyai Wonoboyo Mangir, the son in law as well as enemy of Panembahan Senopati whose tomb is unique because part of it is outside the complex. The story tells that Kyai Ageng Mangir was killed by Panembahan Senopati with his head being bumped to the stone functioning as the throne of Panembahan Senopati. The stone is seen 100 meters away to the south of the mosque.
Muji, one of the court servants, tells YogYES that visitors usually say prayer in each tomb of the King to ask for blessing, safety and success.
Meanwhile, to the south of the tomb there is a place for bathing that is divided into Sendang Kakung for men and Sendang Putri for women. "Bathing in this place can cure some illness and gift of success and prosperity," Muji adds.
Kalang House
After religious visit to the tomb, visitors may visit one of the old houses built by the late Pawiro Suwarno, who was a rich entrepreneur in Kotagede, in 1920s. This house is well known as Rumah Kalang (Kalang House). Kalang are people invited by the King to become carvers of court jewelries.
The uniqueness of this Kalang House is unification of Javanese and European elements, namely joglo as the main building that is located at the back part and European model for the front part. This European building tends to be of baroque shape with Corinthian and Doric styles. The joglo building, especially the hall is not open as the joglo of Javanese house anymore; it is modified as being closed. Green and yellow colors of the relief are not Javanese colors anymore. The presence of colorful glasses as the mosaics connecting the pillars shows that this joglo has received other touch.
This house with mixture of Javanese and European styles now belongs to Ansor family and it is located 300 meters north of Pasar Gede. While enjoying the architecture beauty of the past time, tourists can buy silver handicrafts carved by skillful hands and enjoy delicious meals in Ansor family's house as the biggest silver gallery in Kotagede and a restaurant without changing the original shape of the house.
Special Cuisines and Menus
Talking about delicious meals, it is not complete yet before trying special menu of Kotagede, namely Sate Karang. This name is given after the name of the village that is Karang Village, where Prapto sells this food from evening till night. This is sweet, grilled beef with two uniqueness. First uniqueness is the choice of three sauces, namely peanut sauce, ketchup sauce and kocor sauce. Kocor sauce is chili sauce like the sweet sauce for rujak (mixed fruits). The second uniqueness is the beras kencur beverage (made of rice and greater galingale).
Before leaving Kotagede, do not forget to buy kipo, special food of Kotagede, made from rice flour and filled with sweet coconut grates, shaped as big as human fingers and served on banana leaf. (YogYES.COM: R. Syah)
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Kauman Village, the Enchantment of Islamic Struggle
At the end of Malioboro road, you will come to a cross section. It seems that people are facing the choices for further destination. Most of them prefer to go straight on to the Palace area; it means that unconsciously they have skipped hidden enchantment in the area, namely Kauman village. An area that you will have encountered had you chosen to turn right, passing through K.H. Ahmad Dahlan Street, and enter a gateway on the left side.
Kauman was a village where 9 ketib or Muslim leaders were living and were authorized by the kingdom to handle religious affairs. Since years ago, this village has been playing major role in terms of Islamic religious movements. During independence struggle time, it is the founding place of Muhammadiyah Islamic movement. By the time, a Moslem named K.H. Ahmad Dahlan as the founder of the movement was apprehensive for the community that was trapped into mystical things. Besides, K.H. Ahmad Dahlan also perfected the direction of Mecca 24 degrees northwestwards(to the direction of al Haram mosque in Mecca) and omitted the habit of holding ceremonial meals for dead persons.
An arching gateway will welcome anybody who is entering Kauman village. The arch form is one of the characteristics of Islamic buildings that are much influenced by Middle East. On top of the gate, there is a depiction of a green circle with yellow sun shining 12 rays in it. The picture is now utilized as symbol of Muhammadiyah organization and other institutions under its auspices.
Wandering about the gangs in Kauman village must be done on foot. The small alleys were purposely designed in such a way that vehicles would be difficult to enter. The design was meant for preventing noise from disturbing the santri (students of Islamic institutions) to study and it was the realization of equity philosophy in Kauman where every body entering the area are obligated to leave his social status by walking on foot.
On both sides of the alleys, you will see various buildings with different architectures. A yellow house functioning as a retail store stands just close to the gate. The house has big window, doors and rooms, and ventilations decorated with color glasses showing European architectural influence. Walking to the end of the ally and turn to right, you will see a white house with window and doorframes of brown color. The arch form of the upper part of window leaf shows strong influence of Middle East. Right in front of the house is a blue house with the design of the roof similar to Kalang house in Kotagede.
At the end of the gang before you turn, you will find a monument surrounded by small garden. There is writing of "Syuhada bin Fisabillillah", year 1945-1948, and list of 25 people. The monument is dedicated for Kauman inhabitants who died during their independence struggle. The word 'syuhada' denotes that Kauman community considers the heroes died a martyr's death.
In addition to read the list of dead heroes, you can also see surviving strugglers; one of them is H. Dauzan Farook who lives near the exit of Kauman village. He told YogYES that he joined the Great Commander General Sudirman during the guerrilla. He still keeps some of his photographs with the Great General, newsletters in independence war, and pieces of news from newsletter.
In Farook's house, you will learn that he is still struggling up to now. He founded a moving library named Mabulir. Everyday, he rides his bicycle to offer his books to the community. People may borrow books from him with one requirement that he or she has to gather at least five other people. To his opinion, the requirement is one form of awareness to other people and invitation to share knowledge to others.
A high school that has been operating since 1919 is also found in this village. Initially, the school was named Hooge School Muhammadiyah and it was then changed to Kweek School in 1923. The school that was founded by K.H. Ahmad Dahlan was divided into two in 1930; one was for male and the other for female students. Boys school was named Mualimin while the one for girls was named Mualimat. Later, his wife also founded Aisyah Foundation for women.
The most well known building in Kauman complex is the Great Mosque. The mosque as the main mosque in the Kingdom area was founded 16 years after the foundation of Yogyakarta Kingdom. The Javanese architecture of the mosque was entirely designed by Tumenggung Wiryakusuma. The building consists of main building, verandah and yard totaling 13,000 m2. The verandah building is differentiated from the main building. The supporting poles of the mosque in the main building, for example, were of round, plain form as many as 36 while in the verandah the 24 poles have stone base with cloud motif.
If you have completed your tour to this village, you will acknowledge the intelligence of the community in this small village and believe that Islam has brought improvement. Some Indonesian Islamic leaders such as Abdurrahman Wahid and Amien Rais once were studying here. If you would like to complete your wander, please visit Ahmad Dahlan small mosque. In the past, the building was utilized by Ahmad Dahlan to hold Sidratul Muntaha, the lesson of reciting Koranic verses and preaching. The other legendary small mosque is Putri Ar Rosyad that is the first small mosque (langgar) for women in Indonesia. How was it; quite interesting? If this satisfies you, then you may leave for the Palace complex through the village exit.
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Kasongan, Hunting Ceramics in Kundi Community
In the Dutch colonial time, in one of the areas at the southern part of Yogyakarta there was a shocking and even threatening occurrence with the finding of a dead horse owned by a Dutch detective on a rice field of a villager. Being afraid of punishment, the villager gave up his land ownership and did not acknowledge his land anymore. This was followed by other villagers. This given up land was then possessed by people of other village. Having no more fields to cultivate, the local people ended up with becoming ceramics craftsmen to make toys and kitchen sets until now. This was revealed in an interview by Prof. Gustami at all with local elders in 1980s.
It is that area that we know it as Kasongan until present time; a village in Kajen hamlet that is situated in low mountains with limestone soil. It takes 15-20 minutes drive from the city center.
Kasongan village is the dwelling place of kundis, which means earthenware jugs and later refers to people who make any earthenware jug-like as kitchen tools and ornaments.
"Beginning from our ancestor's habit to knead clay that turns out not to break when it is united, and begin to make some functions for kid toys and kitchen tools. The habit was then descended to current generation," said Giman, one of the workers in Loro Blonyo workshop.
Visiting Kasongan village, the tourists will be welcomed warmly by local inhabitants. They may have a look the showroom crowded with ceramic handicrafts. If they are interested in seeing the ceramics making, tourists can visit some ceramic galleries that produce the special handicrafts at site. The processes are material kneading, shaping, drying that takes 2-4 days and burning before finally being finished using wall paint or roof-tile paint.
Working collectively, a gallery is usually a family business run from generation to the next generation. Even though ceramics making is now involving neighbors of surrounding dwelling place of the gallery owner, the family is still responsible for material selection and production monitoring.
Touch of Modern Design
At the beginning, these ceramics did not have style at all. The legend of the dead horse, however, inspired the craftsmen to create horse motifs on many products, especially the horses carrying earthenware goods or roof-tiles complete with bamboo basket placed on the horseback, in addition to frog, rooster and elephant motifs.
The entering modern influence and culture from outside through various media and the first introduction of Kasongan to public by Sapto Hudoyo around 1971-1972 with artistic and commercial touch and commercially sold in major scale by Sahid Keramik around 1980s enables tourists to see various ceramic motifs. Tourists can even order motifs to their like such as peacock, dragon, rose and others. The types of self production include so many forms. They do not only make kid toys (sounding toys, frog, and money box) and kitchen tools (kuali, pengaron, kendil, dandang, kekep, and others). Entering the gate of Kasongan village, you will see ceramics galleries that sell ornamental items alongside the street. The forms and functions have varied, from small ashtray to flower vase as high as one's shoulder. The ornamental goods either have functions or merely as ornament.
Loro Blonyo Ceramic Statue
One of famous ceramic displays is statue of a couple sitting in polite position. This statue is named Loro Blonyo at the first time by Loro Blonyo gallery owned by Walujo. This statue is adopted from a bridal couple owned by Yogyakarta Kingdom. In Javanese language, Loro means two or a couple, while Blonyo means to be made over through bathing and making up. "The real meaning of Loro Blonyo, however, is still in question among craftsmen in Kasongan," Giman said.
The existing belief of Loro Blonyo statue that brings luck and perpetual family life when located at home, as Giman told YogYES, brings positive impact on the sales of this statue. Some foreigners place order of special statues in certain forms such as dancer, guitar player, models and others. The clothes are not standard Javanese anymore; special clothes of some countries are adopted; statues in Balinese and Thailand clothes are found most. Some ceramic galleries sell this statue in different styles.
Tourism Village
Since the end of the twentieth century, after economy crisis hit Indonesia, tourists may find other products other than earthenware goods. The entering of new comers who open galleries in Kasongan is one of the influences. They sell local products such as handicrafts from coconut tree, dried plants or shellfish. "Business catches up with trend and development, looking at opportunities," Giman adds. Earthenware goods, however, are main means of livelihood of local community. "We have the gift for that; furthermore we have no other skills. Most of us do not finish Senior High School. Only few of them," he adds.
Ceramic handicrafts with various forms and modern as well as artistic motifs and other handicrafts are magnets of Kasongan at present time. Kasongan is a tourism place full of stories and beautiful goods resulted from skillful hands of local community to knead clay.
Two months after the quake, many galleries in Kasongan begin to actively revive although some of them are still in reconstruction stage. By far, there is no more fear of both owners and workers. Local community expects tourists to visit Kasongan as they did before the quake. (YogYES.COM: R. Syah)
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In the early of the nineteenth century, some Dutch geologists living in Yogyakarta intended to find a place for their family to spend their vacation. They went along the edge of the north area as the high land. Arriving at Kaliurang that is located on 900 meter above sea level, the "meneers" were enchanted by the nature beauty and coolness in that foot of the mountain. They finally built bungalows and decided to make the area their place for vacation.
Nature Enchantment and Historical Buildings
The trip from Yogyakarta to Kaliurang reminds us of the scenery picture we (=Indonesian people) made in the kindergarten. A mountain with the street lying in the middle and the green spread on both sides ornamented with people's houses will release tiredness in the frame of nature painting.
Covered with the breeze, even when the sun is over our head, the coolness is still felt. The air dancing through the trees and slowly going down hill gives fresh feeling to our body.
The view of Merapi Mountain gives special sensation in this area. Just like village girls who will cover their face when we look at them, this mountain will also be covered with fog when we come to see it.
Going along the west side of Plawangan Hill as long as 1,100 meters, traveling cross country, through soil path framed with trees and green slopes, and series of 22 caves as the inheritance of the Japanese colonial are some uniqueness of Kaliurang natural tourism.
In addition to its natural beauty, Kaliurang also has some historical buildings. Some of them are Wisma Kaliurang and Pesanggrahan Dalem Ngeksigondo that is owned by the Sultan Palace that used to be functioned as the meeting place of the Three Nation Commission, and Ullen Sentalu museum which part of the building is under ground. This museum reveals the mystery of the culture and values of Javanese history, especially those related to the princess of Yogyakarta and Surakarta kingdoms in the nineteenth century.
Family Recreation Area
Located 28 kilometers from the center of Yogyakarta city, Kaliurang now has an enchanting cultural and natural tourism area that becomes en enjoyable place for family recreation.
Parents may relax while keeping their children playing in the Play Ground. In an area of 10,000 meter square width, children can play swing, sliding, or swimming in a mini pool. Besides, in the play ground that is ornamented with the statue of a genie a la 1001 night stories and some kinds of animal, children can play mini cars or pass through a dragon statue by entering from its mouth and exiting from its tail.
About 300 meters to the north east of the recreation garden, there is Plawangan Turgo garden. There is Tlogo Putri swimming pool of which water originates from a spring at the slope of Plawangan Hill. Playing swing or behaving playfully with the family in the garden will release tiredness among the green forest of the forestry department.
Walking along the east side, seeing some monkeys jumping and swinging on the branches, enjoying the chirp of birds in the sloping up path of layered stones and stairs as long as 900 meters can be a little tiring, but the top of Merapi Mountain viewed on a bright day from Pronojiwo Hill will replace the tiredness with admiration. On the way to the top of Pronojiwo Hill, YogYES had the opportunity to run race with Nick (47 years old), an English tourist. I won the race, but the feeling of being united with nature was more pleasant. Mineral water sold by the drink sellers will quench your thirst while seeing Merapi that stands amidst the green spread of the forest. Binocular is rent for IDR 3,000 per 30 minutes to see the Merapi Mountain more clearly.
Arriving back to the garden, have relax at Tlogo Muncar to enjoy the waterfall. During rainy season, water will flow down swiftly.
To enjoy the Kaliurang scenery, visitors may go around by a rabbit carriage that is most popularly called sepoer. This vehicle usually stands by in the parking lot in front of the food shops. The route is going around from the east to the west to encircle Kaliurang tourism area, passing through the viewing post on the west side where Merapi can be seen clearly on bright days. For minimum of seven people, each person will be charged IDR 3,000. For exclusive trip, the charge is IDR 20,000 per person with services like those for a nobleman.
If you want to enjoy the coolness of the air and the quietness of the night at Kaliurang, there are many choices of villas, bungalows, and inns. The tariffs vary from IDR 25,000 to IDR 300,000. Some lodgings where you can stay are: Bukit Surya (most recommended), Puri Indah Inn (3-stars), and Wisma Sejahtera.
Before leaving, make sure that you buy gifts ranging from local fruits to special food namely tahu and tempe bacem (sweet, fried tofu and tempeh) and jadah (made from sticky rice and grated coconut).
The green spread at the foot of Merapi Mountain, cool air and all natural, luxurious packages will release your tiredness and refresh you from the noise of the city. (YogYES.COM)
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The Story of the Mural at Galeria Crossroad
Galeria crossroad is presumably one of the hearts of Yogyakarta city. This crossroad connects the busiest areas in this gudeg city, namely Jalan Jendral Sudirman with the old Bethesda on it, the busy Jalan Sagan, Jalan Solo as the shopping centre and Lempuyangan area that is famous for its Lempuyangan railway station, the oldest station in Yogyakarta. The crossroad now becomes one of the most crowded areas with the busiest traffic.
If you only look or pass by the crossroad, it will be meaningless. However, when you know the history further, you will find it more meaningful. To the north east of the crossroad, there used to be a gambling centre. The place was always busy every night; it seemed like the Las Vegas in the small Yogyakarta city. As the story tells, whosoever got into the gambling centre would certainly be addicted and would be trapped into the gambling network in it.
In the past, in the west part of the gambling centre, there was a small warong. The small food stall witnessed the losers who lamented over their fate after loosing their belongings in the gamble. Those who got their fortune in the gamble rarely dropped by in this warong since they would spend their money for luxurious things. It was in that small warong that the losers would stare at the luxurious thing, Galeria Mall.
Now, the gambling centre has disappeared. Nonetheless, the trace of its existence is represented by the mural inspired by Farhanski and Apotik Komik with the theme of "Buying Dreams". The mural is painted on the west wall of the gambling centre. The idea of the mural originated from Farhanski's experience when he saw the losers lamented over their fate in the warong. The mural seems like teasing the gamblers who depend their entire life on fortune.
The description of the murals intending to satire the gamblers who used to gamble in the east area of the wall is clear. The big writing, for example, says "Urip Waton Ngglindhing", meaning life just goes on. The text satires the life of gamblers that seems lying on the dice, or just rotates like wheels, without planning or efforts to achieve better life. When they win, they become rich at once; when they lose, they become poor at once, too.
Another text still satires the gamblers, saying "Ngglindhinge wong ndhuwur iso mabur, ngglindhinge wong ngisor mundhak ndlosor", which means the winning of the rich will make them fly even higher but the lose of the poor will make them even worse. Another text reminds people of the livelihood, "Rejeki iku Gusti allah sing ngatur, ora usah ngoyo lan nggresulo", which means God has determined how much we get; we do not have to exert and to complaint.
The pictures in the murals highlight the messages of the text. There are pictures of 'king' and 'queen', the characters in the cards used in gambling. Pictures of luxurious goods such as diamond are also depicted in the murals. There are also pictures of wheels and feet that might symbolize the message of the text that the life of a gambler is like the wheel that must always rotate without anyone can predict what is going to happen.
Initially, the murals teasing the gamblers cover the entire wall, but now only some parts of them can bee seen. The other parts, especially the bottom part, are decorated with other murals by different muralists. The latter might be considered to damage the previous pictures, but actually they response to the previous ones by depicting other activities done at this crossroad. Again, murals can tell daily activities of Galeria crossroad.
The daily activities include posters sticking on the wall. Galeria crossroad with its crowdedness is certainly a strategic place to promote different products. Unfortunately, the posters seem do not care of the murals existence on the wall that are intended to take care of the neglected wall. As a result, some people paint the posters covering the murals as form of protest.
The protest against posters sticking is clear. The murals in the form of texts are made directly on the posters. When YogYES took a close look, the surface of the murals were not smooth; that indicated the posters underlying the murals. With such a protest, the sticking of the posters is still done until now.
So special the murals in this area that people in the location that make their living as vendors were involved in the making process. hus, the murals are not exclusive work of the artists but they were made by local community because what were described in the murals were discussed and made together with the people. During the completion of the works, they even had to change the themes three times.
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Gabusan Market, Handicraft Paradise in Bantul
There is another way to enjoy art works of Bantul people without having to wander about villages that produce them, namely by visiting Gabusan Art Market. The market that is located on Jalan Parangtritis km 9 has been the center of handicrafts trading for the last 2 years. Other facilities such as cafeterias, information technology access and groceries are there for you, too.
Gabusan was designed to open access for craftsmen to international market. For the reason, the design of the market accommodating around 444 craftsmen is of international standard. The design of the market was done by both domestic and foreign architects by, of course, accentuating local architecture. Divided into 16 stalls, Gabusan sells handicrafts of various raw materials, ranging from leather, metals, wood, clay to water hyacinth.
Arriving at the area of Gabusan market, you will be greeted by an interestingly designed gate. On the gate, there are restaurant, crossing bridge and ramp. Having your meals in that restaurant, you will be able to see the entire market from the top view. Close to the area, there is a shop as an information center as well as the place for visitors to get their stuff. This shop is designed so artistically that it has its own interest.
Entering the first stall, you will enjoy bag handicraft made from rattan. Neat woven of the bag gives durable image and combination of the cloth and accessories gives meaningful added value. Various unique, elegant designs produce multifunctional bags for multi purposes. Other handicraft that is available in that stall is a box made from woven bamboo. Despite its simple design and function, the box still looks unique in various bright colors.
If you want to buy candle stands for your guest rooms, you will find them in stall eight. Many types of candle stands from different materials are available. There is a candle container forming like a small, brown bowl with string decoration around it. Another candle stand is made from bamboo some part of which sides are split to make stands with string ornaments on them. In addition to functioning as stand for the glowing candle, the beautiful design of it will attract your guests in your guest room.
Still related to home decorations, you will find interesting masks of various designs in stall six. Some leather masks are carved beautifully in enchanting colors. If you like artificial flowers included the vases, you will get them in stall thirteen. The vases are made of wood or clay with special ornaments of the surfaces. Plain vases without ornaments are not less interesting as well.
Small functional items with artistic designs give valuable added value for you and your family. A standard photo frame, for example, is designed so beautifully with special ornament such as dragon. Pencil case is also available in different variations. There is a pencil case in the form of a sitting man with his white hair as the ornament and the pencil holes are in the front part. Many other items are beautifully designed by the people in Bantul area such as tray in various enchanting designs.
The information center will help to find any kinds of product that you can find in the market. Details of products, prices, location of the stall where you are going to put your orders are all available there. Connected to Internet network, this information center indicates that you can put your order on line. Gradually, this market will accommodate 8,015 handicraft units. The earthquake on 27 May 2006 hit this market mildly but it is being recovered now.
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Beringharjo, a Complete, Traditional Market in Yogyakarta
Beringharjo market becomes part of Malioboro that is worth visiting. This market has been center of economy activity since years ago and its existence has philosophical meaning. The market that had been renovated several times symbolizes stages of human life that is busily engaged in its economy fulfillment. Furthermore, Beringharjo is also one of the 'four in one' poles (consisting of South Square, Sultan Palace, North Square, and Beringharjo market) symbolizing economy functions.
The area where current Beringharjo market lies used to be forest of banyan trees. Soon after the foundation of Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat Kingdom, i.e. in 1758, the area was used as a place for economy transaction by the people of Yogayarkta and its vicinities. Only hundreds years later, namely in 1925, the transaction place had a permanent building. The name 'Beringharjo' was given by Hamengku Buwono IX, meaning that the place where banyan tree (bering) used to grow is expected to bring welfare (harjo). Now, tourists define this place as an enjoyable shopping place.
The front part and the western part of the market are the right places to find delicious traditional snacks. At the north side of the front part, you will find round brem (a kind of snack made from the extract of fermented tubers) that is softer than that of Madiun city and krasikan (sweet cake made from glutinous rice and palm sugar). In the south part, you will find bakpia cake filled with mung bean that is sold warm and wet snacks such as hung kwe and nagasari. Meanwhile, at the back part, usually they sell durable snacks such as ting-ting made of caramel mixed with peanut.
If you want to buy batik, Beringharjo is the best place because of its complete collections; ranging from batik cloth to batik clothes made of both cotton and silk materials, with the prices ranging from tens thousands to a million. Collection of batik cloth is available in west and north parts of the market, while batik clothes collection is available almost everywhere in the west part of this market. In addition to batik clothes, the west part of the market also offers traditional clothes: surjan, blangkon, and sarong both woven and batik printed ones. Sandals and bags sold at reasonable prices are available around the escalator of the west part of the market.
Stepping upstairs to the second floor, you will smell the aroma of Javanese herbs. Herbs such as turmeric that is usually blended with tamarind to produce special drink and temulawak to make bitter drink for medication purpose are sold here. Spices such as ginger (to make ronde drink or merely to be baked, boiled and mixed with crystal sugar) and cinnamon (to enrich the flavors of such drinks as ginger drink, coffee, tea and sometimes to substitute chocolate in cappuccino).
This is also the right market to hunt antiques. The center of antique goods is in east part of the third floor. There, you can get old typewriter, helmet made in 1960s with the front part of which is mica as high as one's nose and some other items. On the same floor, you can get used items of good quality if you want. Various kinds of good quality used imported goods such as shoes, bag, and even clothes are sold at much cheaper prices compared to the original prices. Of course, carefulness in choosing is needed.
After completing your going around in the market, it is time for you to explore the area around the market with not less interesting offers. The area at the north of the market that used to be popular as Chinese Kampong is the most popular place. You can find oldies cassettes of musicians in 1950s that are rarely found in other places at the most expensive price of 50,000 Rupiah. Besides, there are Buddha effigies in different poses costing 250,000 Rupiah. For collectors of old money, they can get the ones from various countries, even the ones utilized in 1930s.
To quench your thirst, special cold drink of Yogyakarta, namely cendol ice, is the right choice. This cold drink from Yogyakarta has richer flavor than the ones from Banjarnegara and Bandung. The contents are not only cendol (jelly-like substance made from glutinous rice but also cam cau (jelly-like substance made from cam cau leaves). Other drinks you can try are young coconut ice with palm sugar and the drink made from turmeric-tamarind and rice-great galingale mixtures. The price of the drink is cheap, namely 1,000 to 2,000 Rupiah.
Even though the market is closed at 05:00p.m, the dynamics of the merchants does not stop by that time. In front of the market, there are still many food sellers offering many kinds of special food. Martabak with various fillers, the sweet terang bulan mixed with chocolate and peanut, and the delicious klepon filled with palm sugar are sold every evening. At around 06:00p.m. until late at night, there is usually gudeg seller who also offers special cuisines of cow skin and variant of stir-fried vegetables with chili. While having your meals, you can listen to Javanese traditional music or have a talk with the seller who will address you friendly. It is just complete!
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